Göreme, Turkey

While the fairy chimneys get most of the attention, the town of Göreme is a delight in itself. With small, uneven cobblestone streets, it has charm up the wazoo. Yes, wazoo.

Many of the hotels and restaurants are carved into the fairy chimneys which is kind of amazing. We stayed in the Turquaz Cave Hotel (pictured above and below), which is partly carved into the mountain but still has plumbing, windows, etc.

For dinner we ate at Seten Restaurant which was fantastic. Reservations recommended.
We also tried Testi Kebap (can't remember the restaurant, pictured above) where the meat is cooked in a clay pot all day long and then the pot is ceremoniously cracked open at the table. You must reserve in advance so your meal can stew all day long.

Aside from eating, the rest of the town is just as dreamy.

Cappadoccia, Turkey: Fairy Chimneys & Underground Cities

After an incredible hot air balloon ride, we got a chance to see the scenery up close.

The entire valley is dotted with what they call fairy chimneys which are uniquely shaped mountains that often have small churches carved into them. There are many ways to enjoy the area. Below is how we saw the sights.


Göreme Open Air Museum

The Open Air Museum is a highly concentrated group of churches, some with really beautiful murals. There are plaques describing what you are viewing which is handy. But it is a bit more crowded so go early.

I highly recommend paying extra to visit the Dark Church. The murals are really lovely. I believe you can pay either at the front of the Church or at the ticket office at the Open Air Museum.

Hiking in the Rose Valley

Hiking through the Rose Valley is a little bit of an adventure. Sure there are signs, but every single one said "Rose Valley 1 km." And then 15 minutes later it would have another saying the exact same thing. We felt like we were lost the entire time and teamed up with other travelers who felt equally lost.

Somehow we made it from one end to the other, stumbling along makeshift churches carved into the mountains. Most were pretty bare but others (like the picture above) still had beautiful frescoes.

Underground Cities

One of the coolest things we did was explore the underground city of Kaymakli. It's a bus ride away from Göreme but well worth the trip.

Four levels are open to tourists and it is really cool to see how they would have figured things out to stay underground for up to six months at a time.

My two big tips for visiting Kaymakli is to visit during lunch time while the big tour groups are eating, and to hire a guide. It costs extra but we teamed up with two other English-speaking couples so we could split the cost. Without the guide it would have been, "ooh look at this rock... and look! A hole!" But the guide pointed out that the hole was for ventilation and the rock was to keep out enemies, etc. You get the idea. Get a guide.

Uçhisar Castle

Visiting Uçhisar Castle is a bit out of the way and inconvenient if you are using public transportation (which we were), but the views of the valley were beautiful and it was a neat place.

Hot Air Balloons in Cappadocia, Turkey

What a way to kick off Turkey!

Hot-air ballooning in Cappadocia, Turkey (Kapadokya) was a combination of things we feared- for Jacob it is heights and for me it is waking up before the sun is up. OK, not a fear but an aversion still the same. We both overcame (the struggle is real) and it was delightful.

Our shuttle bus call time was at the unearthly time of 5:15 a.m. Hot air ballooning follows the air currents and it is best early morning. The balloon business is booming in Goreme with hundreds of balloons launching each morning.

Before we get started, click here for a little hot air ballooning soundtrack. You're welcome.

Our first hot air balloon ride ever. We tried to act cool, like we do this all of the time, but I'm pretty sure we came off like 4-year-olds at Disneyland.

Our balloon basket had five compartments: one for the pilot and four for the passengers. We had our own little section that we could both easily move around in.

After a review of the rules (don't climb out of the basket), we were off!

The ride is so smooth and graceful that Jacob didn't even panic unless he looked over the edge of the basket. And it was usually because I told him to look over- I'm the worst person to sympathize with someone who is scared of heights.

After the flight (which lasted about 75 minutes in air), the balloons are all scattered over the valley. Trailers and crews race all over the valley, pealing around corners to find their blown balloons. Our pilot and crew landed our balloon directly onto the truck trailer. Very impressive!

The crew quickly set up a champagne and fresh fruit landing party to celebrate that no one fell out of the basket, er... for a successful flight.

While this experience was more expensive than a plane ticket to NYC, it was one of the coolest things we did.

What you should really know about Hot Air Balloons in Cappadocia:

• You must book in advance as many of the highest-rated companies book out. We booked with Butterfly Balloons because it was the highest rated. Price included transport, light breakfast before the ride, and a champagne toast after.
• Weather largely dictates if balloons launch. If you are in Cappadocia for more than one night, book the balloon ride for the first day. If it is canceled due to weather, they will try again the next day.
• Bring a jacket- it is chilly 2,000 feet in the air!
• If you can't swing the pricey fee, you can still wake up early and watch the beautiful balloons over the valley each morning.